Ebbene si...oggi spiego i passi principali per poter cambiare l'olio alla propria forcella della nostra carissima e beneamatissima mountain bike :D
L'operazione qui spiegata è stata eseguita su una Marzocchi Dirt Jumper 3 2006, ma l'operazione e' molto simile (per non dire identica) per la maggior parte delle forcelle in circolazione...
Iniziamo con gli strumenti necessari ad eseguire il tutto:
Iniziamo con gli strumenti necessari ad eseguire il tutto:
- Set di chiavi a brugola (utili sicuramente per smontare the fork from the frame, and in some cases to remove the fork);
- Hammer;
- hex wrenches (not always necessary) possibly compass;
- Fork oil (in this case was used Motorex oil seeds Synthetic 7.5W)
- Grasso;
- graduated measuring cup (for oil);
- rags (preferably clean and throw 'cause once they no longer steeped in oil);
- Latex gloves (do not take example from signed);
- oil collection container scrap.
start by saying that I should consult the manufacturer's website to find the type oil used and the quantities needed.
Sometimes it can happen that are necessary for different types of oil (eg mounted on the Rock Shox Boxxer on my Big Hit oils are used in two different shades each leg).
So ... let's start with the operation ...
Step 1 - Remove front wheel, brake and remove the fork from the frame to be able to work more comfortably.
Step 2 (Optional forks in the air or with air preload) - When it comes to a fork in the air or with air preload only remember completely deflate the fork. Note well that if you skipped this step could also become a dangerous as they could fly out to the proper internal air pressure and maybe stronger because of the wounds (in fact, many companies recommend the use of a protective mask for the eyes and never put your head above the area where we are working)
Sometimes it can happen that are necessary for different types of oil (eg mounted on the Rock Shox Boxxer on my Big Hit oils are used in two different shades each leg).
So ... let's start with the operation ...
Step 1 - Remove front wheel, brake and remove the fork from the frame to be able to work more comfortably.
Step 2 (Optional forks in the air or with air preload) - When it comes to a fork in the air or with air preload only remember completely deflate the fork. Note well that if you skipped this step could also become a dangerous as they could fly out to the proper internal air pressure and maybe stronger because of the wounds (in fact, many companies recommend the use of a protective mask for the eyes and never put your head above the area where we are working)
P ace 3 - Using a socket wrench if possible (so as not to fillet the bolt) removed one of the first two covers the top cover of the fork (see photo on the left - in the photo was used a hexagonal wrench for lack of a suitable size of dice - in this case it was a number 21)
Step 4 (Optional in case of spring forks) - Sink the legs slightly so that the blades come out (too much) to remove any elements (springs, spacers, etc.) and remove them; attention because during oil inevitably this will leak oil, although small amounts (see attached photo on the right) Step 5 - Using the special container that you have prepared in advance
and trying to keep in line with this fork ' Finally, turn the fork and take out the oil from the first leg, and immediately after this operation repeat step 3 and 4 for the second leg, and again on step 5; Board to do the job at a time to avoid a stem to release oil from the two legs together and thus be more exposed to risk him out of container (see photo attached) Once all the oil drained from fork, we can proceed in two ways ... we can simply re-fill the fork with oil (to step 9) or continue to perform well for all dismantle it to clean the inside, proceed with the total removal of the fork ...
Step 6 - At the bottom of the blades are normally present 
nuts or allen screws that hold in hydraulics. In the case of
Marzocchi will be needed a socket wrench 12 specially processed (mine 'was prepared by iron of confidence in the lathe) because it fit into a tiny slot. Then, using this key
Unscrew both bolts in under the sleeves (see photo at right).
Once this is done by pulling very slowly, marched from the stems and sheaths with these will come out even the hydraulic part.
We will have separate stems and sheaths on hydraulic and ... (see picture down right).
Step 7 - Using a clean dry cloth
proceed to clean the inner lining (especially the area of \u200b\u200bdust, on which they usually si accumula la maggior parte della terra - vedi gli steli e la parte foto a destra - zona segnalata da freccia rossa).
In casi "estremi" (forcelle mooooolto sporche) sarebbe consigliabile addirittura "lavare" la forcella con saponi
non aggressivi per la plastica (si rischierebbe di rovinare tutti gli elementi in plastica/gomma all'interno), sciacquare con acqua e lasciare asciugare completamente prima di rimontare il tutto...
Passo 8 - Una volta terminata la pulizia (e se abbiamo anche lavato la forcella abbiamo anche aspettato che si asciugasse totalmente) procediamo riempiendo la zona interna dei foderi sottostante ai parapolvere con del grasso e reinfiliamo gli steli all'interno the sliders.
help even with one of the springs to lower the hydraulic totally going to screw the bolts (or Allen) underlying the sliders.
Step 9 - Bring up the stems completely, return it to any springs and internal parts (spacers advised to place just before closing) and using the appropriate sized container measure the amount of oil required for a single rod and pour inside.
proceed in exactly the same way for the second leg ... Once reinserted
oil, very gently, let some "pumped" (pull up and down so to speak) to the fork, so that any air inside comes out completely.
Durante quest'operazione sentiremo dei "gorgoglii"...tutto normale...è l'idraulica che sta prendendo l'olio al suo interno...
Passo 10 - Fine - Procediamo reinserendo eventuali distanziali e subito dopo i coperchi di chiusura, e terminiamo serrandoli correttamente.
Penso che l'operazione risulti abbastanza semplice e penso di aver trattato tutti i punti necessari.
Non mi assumo responsabilità di nessun tipo in merito all'operazione...ogni eventuale problema a vostro rischio e pericolo...
Rimango però a disposizione per eventuali chiarimenti e/o domande.
Buon lavoro!
nuts or allen screws that hold in hydraulics. In the case of Marzocchi will be needed a socket wrench 12 specially processed (mine 'was prepared by iron of confidence in the lathe) because it fit into a tiny slot. Then, using this key
Unscrew both bolts in under the sleeves (see photo at right).
Once this is done by pulling very slowly, marched from the stems and sheaths with these will come out even the hydraulic part.
We will have separate stems and sheaths on hydraulic and ... (see picture down right).
Step 7 - Using a clean dry cloth
proceed to clean the inner lining (especially the area of \u200b\u200bdust, on which they usually si accumula la maggior parte della terra - vedi gli steli e la parte foto a destra - zona segnalata da freccia rossa). In casi "estremi" (forcelle mooooolto sporche) sarebbe consigliabile addirittura "lavare" la forcella con saponi
non aggressivi per la plastica (si rischierebbe di rovinare tutti gli elementi in plastica/gomma all'interno), sciacquare con acqua e lasciare asciugare completamente prima di rimontare il tutto... Passo 8 - Una volta terminata la pulizia (e se abbiamo anche lavato la forcella abbiamo anche aspettato che si asciugasse totalmente) procediamo riempiendo la zona interna dei foderi sottostante ai parapolvere con del grasso e reinfiliamo gli steli all'interno the sliders.
help even with one of the springs to lower the hydraulic totally going to screw the bolts (or Allen) underlying the sliders.
Step 9 - Bring up the stems completely, return it to any springs and internal parts (spacers advised to place just before closing) and using the appropriate sized container measure the amount of oil required for a single rod and pour inside.
proceed in exactly the same way for the second leg ... Once reinserted
oil, very gently, let some "pumped" (pull up and down so to speak) to the fork, so that any air inside comes out completely.
Durante quest'operazione sentiremo dei "gorgoglii"...tutto normale...è l'idraulica che sta prendendo l'olio al suo interno...
Passo 10 - Fine - Procediamo reinserendo eventuali distanziali e subito dopo i coperchi di chiusura, e terminiamo serrandoli correttamente.
Penso che l'operazione risulti abbastanza semplice e penso di aver trattato tutti i punti necessari.
Non mi assumo responsabilità di nessun tipo in merito all'operazione...ogni eventuale problema a vostro rischio e pericolo...
Rimango però a disposizione per eventuali chiarimenti e/o domande.
Buon lavoro!
